FRENCH WINE LOSES MORE GROUND

Once the undisputed leader in both quality and quantity of the wine produced worldwide, France is no longer either. Wines from Australia, Spain, Italy and the US continue to rack up more awards in more competitions, and both the supply and the demand for French Wines are down drastically. Italy now produces more wine and sales are dropping due to demand and consumer familiarity. To make matters even worse there are new players like Argentina and Chile that are gaining interest internationally and even China and India are nipping away at France’s leading export.

Much of the loss is a because French labeling traditions are not working overseas since the majority of wine drinkers know what they are getting when ordering a Spanish Rioja, an Australian Shiraz or a Napa Valley Chardonnay. In the United States as well as other countries, while often mentioning the region of origin, label their wines based on the type of grapes used. French wines are all labeled based on appellation, or area of origin, what the French call “terroir” which refers not only to the location but also to the conditions of the climate and the soil. While French vintners squabble over who may or may not call their wine a Chablis Premier Cru, because their vines grow in a patch of dirt a few hundred feet apart, the rest of the world orders Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.

The future doesn’t look good since change happens over years in France and most everyone knows that their way of labeling has worked for centuries. The fiercest opponents to any change are the families that have appellations that have demanded the respect of the world and that have contributed to the French tradition of winemaking. Only a few see the writing on the wall, and have recently petitioned to change the French ‘area of appellation’ rules saying the current labeling will eventually cause losses in tax revenue at home and stature around the world. French households drank almost 10 percent less wine last year than in 2007, and exports by French vintners sank 15 percent by volume and almost 30 percent by value in the first quarter of 2009, the agriculture ministry reported. Some in the French wine industry are backing a proposal to retain current labeling but also add the grape varieties to the labels, but most are reluctant to the even the thought of conforming to what has become a world standard, outside of France.

As it looks now, there won’t be a compromise before more bottles of French wine leave the tables and the collections of wine lovers around the globe.

Bookmark It